Pauline van Dongen besteigt de trappen van torens en magazijnen

Fashionfilm 'Stereopsis'/ bron: www.PaulinevanDongen.nl


§tereop§i§ from Champagne Valentine on Vimeo.


//////////////////////////////////|\/|\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\
Modevormgever Pauline van Dongen (geb.1986) studeerde in hetzelfde jaar aan de ArtEZ Fashionmasters als ik: 2008-2010. De fashionmasters kende twee 'stromingen': Design (Van Dongen dus) en Strategy (ik dus). Met argusogen '- een een beetje jaloezie vanwege het modetalent dat deze mensen bezaten- keek ik aan de zijlijn mee hoe de 11e generatie FIA* studenten aan hun professionele avontuur begonnen. De kennis dat een of enkele uit deze jonge vijver vissen een ruwe diamant was om na een of twee jaar na zijn of haar afstuderen, het modevolk, de modebladen en de modeweken te veroveren, heeft zich lang en breed uitgewezen. Kijk maar naar hun succesvolle voorgangers: Viktor Horsting, Rolf Snoeren (V&R), Jan Taminiau, Klavers van Engelen, Lucas Ossendrijver (Lanvin Homme), de zusjes Truus en Riet Spijkers. Natuurlijk staat een opleiding niet aan de wieg van hun succes - dat is de drive en passie van de ontwerpers zelf - maar toch kiezen veelbelovende talenten om plaats te nemen in de banken van deze fashionmaster. Nu is het de beurt aan Pauline van Dongen zich tussen deze succesvolle alumni van het FIA te positioneren.

Wat opvalt is dat Van Dongen een onopvallende vrouw is, in tegenstelling tot de zeer sprekende, krachtige creaties die zij ontwerpt. Zoals vaak bij 'echte' talenten, zijn het hardwerkende en niet op glamour en fame beruste types. Eerder mediaschuw of onopvallende personen dan personen die het aan de hele wereld willen laten zien met hun uiterlijk en gedrag dat zij íets in de mode doen danwel ontwerper zijn. Glamour is tijdelijk, kwaliteit is eeuwig. Dat siert ontwerpers als bovengenoemden, en heeft hen geen windeieren gelegd. Eerst komt het ontwerp, dan pas de ontwerper.

Pauline van Dongen is bezig door te breken. Zij sluit goed aan bij de nieuwe dymensie van modedesign: nieuwe technologie. Net als Iris van Herpen, schuwt Van Dongen high tech materialen en voor mode onbekende vormgevings-mechanica niet. Sinds Van Dongen een workshop Shoe Design volgde, kwam zij in aanraking met 3D printing en product design. Hierdoor kijkt zij met andere ogen naar het omhullen van het lichaam, de functie, de vorm danwel de realisatie van een kledingstuk. Haar mode-ontwerpen zijn geometrisch, met laser-uitgesneden, high-tech, futuristisch maar toch duidelijk voor een vrouw die zich elegant en stoer wenst te kleden.

Afgelopen week presenteerde Van Dongen haar 2011-collectie 'Stereopsis' in een intieme modeshow in Magazijn aan de Oudezijds Voorburgwal in Amsterdam. Een voor een daalde de modellen van de oude houten trap af in stijlvolle soutterain, balancerend op het speciale schoeisel van Van Dongen, om als beelden in de ruimte op een sokkel plaats te nemen, als living statues. Daarnaast presenteert Van Dongen compleet passend bij de tijdsgeest een abstracte modefilm, die de emotie, sfeer en thematiek van haar collectie 'Stereopsis' versterkt (Modefilms zijn populair...meer info). Deze film als mede enkele van haar creaties is geexposeerd in de torentjes van De Waag, onderdeel van Wintersalon/.

Modeshow 'Stereopsis' @ Magazijn/ bron: ASVOF/G.Konings:


Van Dongen's Waag-torentjes:

*Sinds 2010 wordt de naam FIA niet langer gebruikt, maar noemt de masteropleiding zich 'ArtEZ Fashionmasters'.

//////////////////////////////////|\/|\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\

Mode Made Man - a fashion picture forest @ Wintersalon/Amsterdam Museum

//////////////////////////////// |\/| \\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\

For the third time, Salon/ presents a fashion-salon-tour through Amsterdam. Six locations show fashion installations, photography, film and fashion concepts on Wintersalon/ 15-30 january 2011, every day from 11:00 h - 17:00 h. Tickets a 10 euro via www.salon1.org. 

//////////////////////////////// |\/| \\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\

photo-expo 'MODE MADE MAN' by Philippe Vogelenzang & Majid Karrouch @ Wintersalon/ahm

On the public courtyard of the Amsterdam Museum photographer Philippe Vogelenzang and stylist Majid Karrouch created the project Mode Made Man, part of the main exhibition A'DAM - Man & Fashion. 

Central for this special project is the concept of reality versus fantasy. Vogelenzang and Karrouch took pictures of 29 'real' men and their authentic styles, but placed them in an unrealistic context, a strory-frame the duo directed. To underline the personality of each men, the men wrote a word under the picture what characterised their personal story best. 

Will the authenticity of these men remain in an unnatural setting, or will it vanish by the artificial fashion shoot? 

Edging the contrast of two photographic techniques, raw portraits versus polished fashion shoots, is characteristic for the black and white Mode Made Man pictures of Vogelenzang and Karrouch. 

Two lady visitors of the museum walked somewhat abstinent through the fashion picture forest. I heard their conversation and asked what they liked or dislikes of the images. The middle aged women felt scared by some of the younger portrayed men, provocatively looking into the camera. The portrait of a sailor looking man was their favorite, because it was peaceful, friendly and 'lighter' than the others. 

Emotion is key if it comes to pictures. Personality and emotion is what nails the portraits of Mode Made Man, I think. Very well done. 

Go see the picture forest freely on the courtyard of the Amsterdam Museum to see - and feel- what you think of the real-fantasy contrasts. Until 30 january 2011. 

//////////////////////////////// |\/| \\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\

Stylist Majid Karrouch (left) and photographer Philippe Vogelenzang (right), a young and talented duo

//////////////////////////////// |\/| \\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\

Dutch ELLE Style Awards 2011, a fun ride for the inner circle

////////////////////////|\/|\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\

ELLE Style awards 2011 – a personal report

////////////////////////|\/|\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\

Winning stylist Bonne Reijn (in white shirt) with his royal ton-sur-ton creations.

For the 7^th time, fashion magazine ELLE presented the ‘fashion party of the year’, the ELLE Style Awards 2011. Every year three awards can be won: the Styling Award for an upcoming stylist, the Personal Style Award for a Dutch female celebrity, and a price for best dressed guest of the evening.

It was my first ELLE Style Award attending. Together with friend Lorianne van Gelder, party reporter for newspaper Het Parool - and two official press cards - we entered the Stadsschouwburg, what turns out to be a great choice of location for a night like this. Of course there was a dress code involved, Rock-n-Royalty, a theme the fashion lovers interpretates like only fashion people can: stylish, creative, clueless or very delicate. They flannered in front of each other, and the media to show off their rock-n-royalty outfits.

Most people chose a mixture of black leather elements, strass stones, and a hard rock t-shirt. Myself, I put on a white leather skirt with black details that reminded me of the 80s rockband KISS and their extreme black and white make-up.

Stylist Fleur (finalist): “To dress differently everyday, to have that kind of freedom is awesome, don’t you think?”

Camera’s flashed, reporters interviewed arriving celebrities. The level of inspiring and fashionable garments was high, because all fashion stylists came to the show to support their colleagues Bonne, Fleur and April, nominated for the ELLE H&M Stylist Award 2011.

The first part – making a grand entrée and invest quickly who you know or recognize – is done, so part 2 arrived: find your seat on the runway. But where or what was the runway? The hallways of the theater were, what was pretty uncomfortable – but fun at the same time -, because if people haven’t seen you yet, they now surely will. There was no way you reached your seat without walking over this ‘runway’ with all eyes on you, because waiting for the show to begin is boring. And watching people while waiting isn’t! Lorianne and I were lucky to sit in the VIP area.

Then part 3: the show. In a rush the creations of the three stylists passed by before you could say ‘Rock and Royalty’. All models entered the runway in three separate groups – for each stylist one – and were in a hurry like they had to catch the first plain to Paris – or a shot of free champagne, waiting for them backstage. It took a flag carrier with the words ‘The End’ on his flag to make us realize this was indeed all there was to see. What a pity!

Cecile Narinx (ELLE editor-in chief): "Tonight we present stylists, not fashion designers". 

The awards were presented inside the theatre; so again, everybody had to find a seat, what made the evening a bit chaotic. It was like the audience couldn't wait no longer for the after party to begin. Some shouted a joke, others cheered when ELLE’s editor-in-chief Cecile Narinx thanked the supplier of the free champagne.

A dancefloor with bar on stage and a skeleton-chandellier. 

The winners are revealed, it was party time. The decor disappeared and a dance floor appeared on stage with bar, lounge, disk-jockey and punk band. Now, everyone could be a rockstar on stage. ELLE have used the whole building and it’s facilities perfectly, it was a fun ride. This fashion night was about having a good time with colleagues and fashion friends, less about the winners of the awards. That’s just a useful topic to start a conversation with. 

For me, fashion is about the clothes, the design, the presentation, the exposure of new ideas, new talent, new silhouettes and contexts. I hoped to see more of the stylists' creations, which looked inspiring. Stylist Bonne (the winner) appeared most promising, fresh and visionary to me with his ton-sur-ton creations, while the other two finalists still explore the boundaries of eclecticism and style blocking.

As an outsider of the hardcore fashion scene, you can tell these people have a strong unifying connection, they are fashion relatives. On the other hand it's a segregated culture with room for only those who work hard and have enough balls to stand out. Or are effective networkers...apparently I'm not, I haven't had the chance to speak with Cecile Narinx this night...maybe next time. 

The winners of the ELLE Style Awards of 2011:

- Fashion stylist Bonne Reijn (ELLE H&M Stylist Award)

Bonne: “LEGO has been my fundament for styling”. 

Bonne (left), Fleur (center) and April (right).

- Actress Halina Reijn (ELLE Personal Style Award);

Helina Reijn: “I want to dedicate this award to all woman of the world who see fashion as an inspiration, not as a corset.”

- Make-up artists Thijs and Ellis (ELLE King & Queen of the Ball Award).

- Other well-dressed fashion professionals:

////////////////////////|\/|\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\

The fashiontainment and salonfähigkeit of fashion presentations

/////////////////////////////// |\/| \\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\

The audience waits for the fashion circus to begin...

/////////////////////////////// |\/| \\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\
Monday evening on the 3rd of January 2011, successful Dutch fashion-designer Hans Ubbink treated the Amsterdam fashion crowd on a public fashion show. In the arena of the neo-renaissance Royal Theater Carre in Amsterdam Ubbink showed his men's wear, woman's wear and denim collection for fall/winter 2011/2012, graced by live performances of singer Ellen ten Damme, an illussionist and   musicians Moke. Ubbink is known for his 'unconventional' locations to present his collections; a concert hall and a summer theater in a forrest (and believe me, for Dutch terms this is uncommon to do, where fashion shows take place on the traditional runway of our fashion weeks). This time Ubbink took it show over the fashion top: make it a public fashion show where 'everyone is invited'. Just buy a ticket at the checkout or online and be part of the inner crowd, the more the merrier. How democratic can fashion become these days? 

What to think of a publicly accessible fashion show, where the ordinary man can buy a rather expensive ticket (34 euro) to see a fashion show, what is in fact a marketing tool of a fashion designer. At the show of Hans Ubbink all seats were filled, what meant that ca.1200 people were willing to pay to be a part of this special fashion experience. Will this be the latest trend in the democratization of fashion, or is it just a way to compensate the high costs of fashion shows in these economic unstable times and lack of big advertisers and financial support?

After the show I spoke with Maartje Hartveldt - fabric buyer at Hans Ubbink - who told me this particular fashion show have cost over 50,000 euro, the production of the three collections not encountered. The turnover of the ticket sale will not cover the expenses of this event, though. 

But still, it is not a bad idea to give the 'hungry mass' the opportunity to physically experience an real-time fashion show of a popular fashion brand. Why not go for unconventional ways to fund a fashion show? Fashion has become entertainment, a spectacle with the focus on worldwide attention, less a way to strengthen the relationships with the upper class, fashion authorities and loyal customers, I think. It is (still) an explosive marketing tool to reach for the biggest market of potential buyers: the middle class. 

But at the same time, an anti-reaction is on it's way: a trend to present luxury fashion collections in selective and small gatherings, only allowed for the influential, viable and indispensable shareholders and fashion authorities, to give them an exclusive treatment. The concept of the19th century salons is gaining popularity among the high end fashion houses (e.g. Balenciaga, Alexander McQueen, Valentino, Jan Taminiau, if i'm correct) not in the last place because the concept of a salon links fashion with the world of the fine arts and academics. Salons are an effective tool to build personal relations with the ones fashion needs to outlive the democratisation of fashion - and keep the luxury status. 


I asked designer Hans Ubbink what will be next? A football arena? 'No', he thinks of a more intimate approach, where just a very selective group of people are invited to set eyes on his new collection. 'Like a French salon?' I asked. 'Yes', he replied, 'a salon is a good example of what I wish for next time. This was fun, for one time I wanted to give everyone the opportunity to watch a real fashion spectacle, but next time, it will be completely different,' he promised.

With live stream fashion shows where avatars are sitting front row, fashion also find it's way back to exclusivity and interdisciplinary by strengthening the relations with the arts and elite again.


/////////////////////////////// |\/| \\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\